Fashion

Leila Slimani's Guide to Discovering the Charms of Rabat

Leila Slimani, a distinguished author, fondly recalls her birthplace, Rabat, Morocco, once perceived as a tranquil capital, distinct from the bustling cities of Casablanca or Marrakesh. She describes Rabat as a royal and diplomatic hub, characterized by a discretion she deeply cherishes. Although Slimani relocated to Europe at the age of 18, she consistently returns to her hometown for summer and winter breaks, where her friends and mother still reside. She has observed the city's remarkable evolution over the years, noting improvements in its infrastructure, a proliferation of cultural venues, and the meticulous refurbishment of its gardens, finding it more enchanting with each visit. Slimani, now based in Lisbon, emphasizes Rabat's strategic location within the Bouregreg Valley, a verdant sanctuary for numerous bird species, including storks, the city's emblematic bird. She also highlights Rabat's rich historical tapestry, shaped by the settlement of Andalusians post-Spanish Reconquista and its past as a 17th-century pirate republic. For Slimani, Rabat is profoundly personal; her father rests in the marine cemetery by the Atlantic, and she expresses a desire to be buried there as well, affirming Rabat as her eternal home.

Slimani's autobiographical trilogy, In the Country of Others, with its latest installment I'll Take the Fire, vividly portrays Rabat. The author recounts her efforts to bring to life the vibrant artistic and intellectual scene of 1970s Rabat, a city of power where both creative endeavors and intricate conspiracies unfolded. She asserts that Rabat remains a constant source of inspiration, accompanying her wherever she goes. Slimani offers a curated list of recommendations for visitors, beginning with accommodations. She notes the emergence of numerous hotels catering to diverse preferences, singling out the recently opened Waldorf Astoria in the Mohammed VI Tower for its unparalleled 360-degree views of the city. She also expresses a particular affection for the historic Balima Hotel, currently undergoing renovation, and the charming Story Rabat boutique hotel, celebrated for its beautiful garden and tasteful design. For dining, Slimani suggests starting with the city's excellent fish at establishments like Al Marsa, a renowned institution serving Spanish specialties, and Juanita Banana, a lively Mexican spot. She also recommends Muskaan for its refined cuisine, expansive terrace, and live weekend music. For breakfast, she favors traditional cafes near the Central Market, offering local crepes, smoked meat eggs, or even tagine. She also points to the renovated Cinema Renaissance, an Art Deco gem, for its chic Moroccan tea selection and vibrant atmosphere, frequented by the city's trendsetters. For a caffeine fix, Slimani recommends the traditional mint tea at Café Maure in the Casbah des Oudayas, accompanied by delicious pastries, a place she has frequented since childhood.

Exploring further, Slimani highlights Maymana patisserie for exceptional Moroccan pastries and bread, celebrating it as a female-led success story. For late-night dining, she suggests La Mamma, a legendary Italian restaurant where her parents first met, known for its authentic pizza and grilled dishes. Mister Brochettes is recommended for its grilled meats, a local favorite. Rabat's cultural scene is enriched by the Royal Theatre of Rabat, Africa's largest theater and an architectural marvel designed by Zaha Hadid. For culinary delights, Slimani recommends Ciciona for its traditional couscous and breathtaking views of the Bouregreg Valley and ancient Chellah ruins. Shopping recommendations include Medina Crush for modern Moroccan craftsmanship and Houria Tazi Workshop for exquisite embroidery. Ocean 17, an Art Deco-style concept store, offers a selection of Moroccan-made goods. For beauty products, Maroc Maroc, known for its natural ingredients like argan oil, is highly recommended. Art enthusiasts can visit the Museum of Photography in Borj El Kebir and the Mohamed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Slimani also cherishes Rabat's secondhand bookstores, particularly Mohamed Aziz's shop on Avenue Mohammed V, a treasure trove of over 5,000 books. For flowers, the Central Market is a vibrant sensory experience. For photography, she suggests the storks over Chellah necropolis or the colonnaded walkway near Hassan Tower at sunset. Souvenir hunters should explore Rue des Consuls for authentic yet modern crafts, such as leather bags, raffia shoes, or saffron-yellow babouches. Nature escapes include Hassan II Park, Jardin d’Essais Botaniques, and the Exotic Gardens of Bouknadel. For tranquility, the Chellah necropolis offers a serene setting amidst Roman ruins and royal tombs. Rabat is easily explored on foot, with the tram providing comfortable longer-distance travel. A day trip to Salé is suggested to explore its medina and the Shems Foundation. The Mohammed VI Tower offers a panoramic 360-degree view of the city. Rabat's Art Deco architecture, especially along Avenue Mohammed V, is a must-see. The best time to visit is spring and autumn for mild weather and exceptional light. For exercise, swimming or surfing at Sables d’Or or Skhirate Beach, running in parks, or golfing at Royal Golf Dar Es Salam are options. Finally, for local secrets, Slimani points to the Boukroune market for organic produce and Amnesia nightclub for lively entertainment.

Rabat, often seen as a tranquil capital, is in fact a dynamic and culturally rich city that seamlessly blends its historical heritage with modern advancements. Its transformation, as witnessed by author Leila Slimani, underscores a dedication to preserving its unique identity while embracing progress. This harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, coupled with its natural beauty and vibrant cultural scene, positions Rabat as a captivating destination. The city's continuous evolution and commitment to offering diverse experiences for residents and visitors alike serve as a testament to its enduring appeal and promising future.

Chelsi Banks: A Rising Star in Fashion's New Guard

At the tender age of 13, Chelsi Banks demonstrated her inherent leadership qualities by effectively taking charge of several fashion-focused group discussions on Instagram. These digital forums served as a platform for aspiring young models to hone their runway techniques and exchange insights on entering the industry. Membership was exclusive, requiring applicants to submit unedited casting photos, known as digitals. Reflecting on her assertive approach, the now 19-year-old Chelsi humorously recalls how she would enforce strict fashion quizzes and demand precise pronunciations of designer names like Proenza Schouler, Loewe, and Alaïa, swiftly removing those who failed to meet her high standards.

Chelsi's profound understanding of the fashion world, nurtured through extensive online engagement, fueled her early confidence. She immersed herself in fashion communities on platforms like Twitter and devoured video compilations of iconic supermodels spanning from the 1990s to the 2010s. Her initial fascination with fashion, she notes, was sparked by the fervent online following of Eastern European models from the early 2000s, affectionately dubbed the Russian Dolls. This self-driven education extended to eagerly requesting magazine subscriptions and watching industry documentaries. She even developed a significant following on high-fashion Twitter, where her meticulously recreated photos inspired by supermodel Karlie Kloss occasionally earned her the validating experience of a repost from Kloss herself.

Chelsi's digital passion soon translated into her everyday life. During the COVID-19 pandemic, when classes moved online, she embraced Zoom calls as an opportunity to experiment with her wardrobe, albeit with her camera often off. Drawing inspiration from Emma Chamberlain's 90s-infused style, she would attend virtual school dressed in sweatshirts or sweater vests paired with high-waisted jeans, a distinct departure from her peers' casual attire. By the time in-person classes resumed, Chelsi had already evolved her aesthetic, incorporating playful lace socks and corsets worn over T-shirts. This dedication to her unique style made her conspicuous in her small, cliquey suburban Birmingham, Alabama school, where she was often the sole Black girl in her classes. She found solidarity and affirmation within her online community, believing that self-acceptance was key, and confidently dismissing her classmates' opinions. By her sophomore year, Chelsi had fully embraced her individuality, sporting four-and-a-half-inch Mary Jane platforms to class and cultivating new friendships. She regularly documented her daily outfits on Instagram Stories with the simple caption, 'walking into school.' Her persistent efforts culminated in the establishment of her school's fashion club, which, despite initial skepticism from the district, grew to 25 dedicated members who collaboratively expressed their fashion identities through physical mood boards.

As she approached graduation, Chelsi set her sights on fashion studies at university. However, the high costs of prestigious institutions like Parsons and the Fashion Institute of Technology, even with scholarships, proved prohibitive. Instead, she chose Auburn University, a more accessible in-state option with ties to the fashion industry, where she is now a sophomore studying apparel merchandising and journalism. Her relentless drive, evident in her early Instagram endeavors, continued in college, leading her to quickly advance within Auburn's fashion magazine, Swatch, with aspirations of becoming editor-in-chief. Throughout her mid-teen years, Chelsi's personal taste matured, drawing inspiration from the quirky femininity of Miu Miu and the bold aesthetic of 2010s teen magazines like Rookie. This fusion resulted in a style that is both sweet and assertive, characterized by babydoll dresses and bubble-hem skirts. Her childhood bedroom reflects this aesthetic, housing a cherished collection of ultra-feminine, mostly vintage pieces from designers like Miu Miu, Marc Jacobs, and Betsy Johnson, complemented by a handmade chintz canopy from her mother, Theresa, and a pink tulle-adorned trash can. Beyond online inspiration, Chelsi gained practical knowledge of garment construction at home. Her mother, Theresa, a seventy-something army veteran, shared her passion for sewing, a skill she developed early in her military career. Theresa's craft room, filled with fabrics and sewing machines, became a learning ground. During an interview, Theresa proudly displayed a sailor shirt she crafted for Chelsi, inspired by a high-end Miu Miu design. Chelsi, in turn, presented her own creations, a vibrant series of prize ribbons, a nod to designer Sandy Liang's reinterpretation of the award.

Currently, Chelsi has largely moved beyond the online fashion communities that shaped her formative years, with her Twitter account inactive and the modeling group chats fading away. While she still utilizes the internet as a selective resource, she now seeks out creators like Rian Phin, who are celebrated for their in-depth research and comprehensive understanding of fashion and culture. Chelsi admires how Rian interconnects these elements, elevating fashion beyond mere clothing. She also expresses apprehension about technology's impact on her generation's sense of style, particularly how social media and AI can homogenize trends. Her strong anti-AI stance is evident, even having been the subject of her journalism midterm essay, where she argued against using tools like ChatGPT for fashion advice. She applies this philosophy to her personal style, emphasizing an organic evolution rather than blindly following algorithmic suggestions, valuing authentic self-expression over curated trends.

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Jenni Kayne's Strategic Global Expansion: A New Blueprint for Fashion Brands

This article outlines Jenni Kayne's innovative and cautious approach to expanding its fashion brand globally, detailing the strategies employed to overcome common challenges in international markets.

Pioneering Global Fashion: Jenni Kayne's Thoughtful Expansion Journey

Navigating Global Headwinds: A Strategic Approach to International Expansion

In an era marked by escalating tariffs, geopolitical shifts, fluctuating currencies, and rising logistical expenses, the landscape for American fashion brands seeking international growth is undeniably complex. Yet, California-based lifestyle brand Jenni Kayne is not only embracing this challenge but also crafting a novel framework for independent labels venturing into global markets.

The Genesis of International Ambition: Identifying and Validating Demand

Despite existing international interest in Jenni Kayne's offerings, the brand strategically decided to intensify its global outreach in 2023, spurred by increasing difficulties in acquiring new customers within the United States. Canada, in particular, demonstrated significant potential, consistently generating substantial web traffic and achieving over $2 million in sales even before a formal launch. Similarly, the UK market exhibited robust momentum, with steady traffic growth and sales exceeding $600,000, despite limited cross-border infrastructure. A 39% year-over-year surge in international customer service inquiries further underscored a strong purchase intent beyond mere site visits.

Cultivating Market Presence: Strategic Partnerships and Experiential Engagements

Kate Watters, the brand's president, highlighted that the UK, Canada, and Australia consistently emerged as key regions for international engagement. Customers in these markets showed a preference for full-priced, multi-piece wardrobe investments, aligning perfectly with Jenni Kayne's vision of fostering long-term customer relationships rather than relying on promotional sales. To gain deeper market insights, the company initiated wholesale collaborations, such as with Toronto's TNT retailer in Canada. Founder Jenni Kayne observed that her brand resonated with customers globally. In the UK, a pop-up at Selfridges in October served as a critical testing ground, evolving from a temporary display into a vibrant mini-store that continues to yield strong sales and reorders, enriched by bespoke floral arrangements and vintage furnishings that embodied the Jenni Kayne aesthetic.

Addressing Geopolitical Realities: Resilience in a Volatile Landscape

International expansion inevitably confronts broader geopolitical considerations beyond just product. Watters noted that tariffs significantly influenced the decision-making process in 2025 as cross-border trade discussions intensified. Consequently, the brand chose a deliberate, unhurried approach to international growth, prioritizing the strengthening of its core business to ensure a solid operational and financial foundation before entering new territories. While the apparel sector faced increased import costs, Jenni Kayne's enduring factory relationships and the timeless nature of its core products offered flexibility. The brand also enhanced full-price sales and reduced its reliance on promotions, mitigating margin pressures and enabling a thoughtful, rather than reactive, expansion strategy. Geopolitical sentiments, particularly between the US and Canada, were also carefully considered, with Jenni Kayne consulting local contacts and leveraging the classic, enduring appeal of its collection to minimize risk.

Laying the Digital Foundation: Building Robust Cross-Border Infrastructure

A pivotal step in Jenni Kayne's global strategy was the selection of Global-E as its cross-border e-commerce partner, a decision informed by consultations with other internationally successful brands like Reformation. This platform seamlessly manages local currency conversions, duties, taxes, and checkout processes, while DHL Express handles shipping logistics. Initially, the international rollout has focused primarily on apparel, with more logistically complex categories like furniture, candles, and jewelry slated for later phases. Returns are currently processed through the company's Las Vegas distribution center. Watters emphasized that while the Global-E investment was substantial for a brand of Jenni Kayne's size, it was deemed essential for streamlining operations and outsourcing intricate tasks.

Prioritizing Sustainable Growth: Strategic Repositioning and Resource Allocation

The international launch is part of a larger strategic pivot for Jenni Kayne towards a more measured and sustainable growth trajectory. The brand has dialed back previous plans for an IPO or acquisition, instead concentrating on refining its brand positioning and customer acquisition efforts. Watters underscored a commitment to healthy, sustainable growth, ceasing to leverage home goods as a primary growth driver and instead focusing on apparel, which now constitutes approximately 85% of sales due to its more accessible price points. The pace of new store openings has also been adjusted from five to about two per year, including an upcoming experiential store in Malibu featuring an Oak Essentials Spa. This shift has freed up resources for crucial digital investments, international expansion initiatives, and operational enhancements. Additionally, efforts to elevate the brand image through reduced promotional activities and a New York Fashion Week presentation styled by Kate Young have bolstered brand health, resulting in an increase in customer retention to 74% and a 20 percentage point rise in full-price penetration in the direct-to-consumer sector.

The Universal Appeal: Making the Product the Hero

A fundamental question for any American brand entering new markets is whether its product will resonate with an international audience. Kayne firmly believes in the universality of her customer base. She asserts that the desire for comfortable, timeless, and versatile wardrobe staples transcends geographical boundaries, enabling women worldwide to build a distinctive personal style. Instead of developing trend-driven, market-specific assortments, the company has amplified its focus on the core products that established its success. The pleated skirt, Flynn cashmere sweater, Cocoon cardigan, and Demi pant have emerged as early international favorites, with the pleated skirt's continued popularity since its Fall 2022 debut highlighting the enduring appeal of the brand's classic offerings.

Building Brand Visibility: Targeted Awareness Campaigns and Community Engagement

To support its global launch, Jenni Kayne plans to invest in targeted paid media campaigns on platforms like Meta. However, initial promotional efforts have primarily centered on highly curated brand experiences. In Toronto, a dinner co-hosted by Jenni Kayne and brand ambassador Anna Porte engaged 32 tastemakers, generating an estimated three million social media impressions, with 84% of attendees sharing content on Instagram within 24 hours. This was followed by a public coffee activation featuring custom branding. To broaden its national reach, the brand engaged 20 influencers across Vancouver and Montreal, adding an estimated two million impressions, alongside an additional 26.6 million impressions from posters and digital transit shelters in Toronto. For the UK launch, Kayne hosted a series of intimate events and brand moments in Somerset and London, including partnership stays, editorial content shoots, VIP community dinners for industry leaders and creators, private press appointments, and gifting experiences at The Ned.

Tangible Rewards: Measuring the Success of Global Endeavors

This meticulous approach is already yielding positive results. International e-commerce revenue has increased by 15% year-over-year, accelerating to nearly 26% during the spring period, primarily driven by growth in Canada and the UK. Watters views this as a promising early indicator of significant global demand and long-term expansion potential. The brand received an unexpected boost shortly after its international launch when Catherine, Princess of Wales, was seen wearing one of Jenni Kayne's pleated skirts, leading to a 340% surge in sales and a 250% increase in total UK revenue within two weeks. Watters noted the "halo effect" of this organic placement, which drove customers to other core pieces, increased UK site traffic by 40%, and boosted average daily sessions by over 200%.

Expanding the Vision: Beyond E-commerce to Immersive Lifestyle Experiences

Jenni Kayne's international ambitions extend beyond mere shipping. The brand's world-building strategy has involved creating immersive lifestyle experiences, such as the Jenni Kayne Ranch in Los Olivos, California, and the Jenni Kayne Farmhouse in New York’s Hudson Valley, which host editors, influencers, and customers. While immediate plans do not include acquiring and renovating international properties, Kayne hopes to establish physical retail locations within the next two years. Hospitality also remains a long-term aspiration, with the company having already undertaken interior design projects, including for Te Arai Links in New Zealand. Kayne humorously expressed a need for a partner to realize these ventures. The theme of expanding the Jenni Kayne universe was also central to her latest book, Pacific Natural Everywhere, which showcases homes globally that embody a shared aesthetic, reinforcing the concept of "California living everywhere."

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