Finance

Chanel has recently unveiled a significant leadership change within its prestigious jewelry creation studio, appointing Marie-Laure Cérède as its new director. This announcement, made on a Tuesday, confirms earlier industry speculation that had been circulating since her departure from Cartier late last year. Cérède is slated to commence her official duties at Chanel in October 2026, marking a new chapter for the luxury brand's exquisite jewelry offerings.

Chanel's global executive chair, Alain Wertheimer, and global CEO, Leena Nair, released a joint statement expressing their enthusiasm for Cérède's appointment. They lauded her as one of the most accomplished and visionary creative directors of her generation, highlighting her refined aesthetic and exceptional talent in leading design teams. Both executives believe that Cérède's unique perspective and creative ingenuity will be instrumental in shaping the future narrative of Chanel's jewelry collections.

The position of director of the jewelry creation studio at Chanel had remained vacant since the unfortunate passing of Patrice Leguéreau in 2024. Leguéreau had admirably served in this role for 15 years, leaving a profound legacy. Cérède's background includes a distinguished tenure as creative director of jewelry and watchmaking at Cartier from 2016 to 2025. In her new capacity at Chanel, she will be primarily responsible for both precious and high jewelry creations, reporting directly to Frédéric Grangié, who serves as the president of watches and fine jewelry. She will also collaborate closely with Arnaud Chastaingt, the long-standing director of Chanel's watchmaking creation studio.

Industry estimates from Morgan Stanley indicate that Chanel's watches and jewelry segment contributes approximately 5% to the house's total sales. Based on a projected turnover of $19.3 billion for 2025, this translates to an estimated $965 million from the jewelry and watch division alone, underscoring the strategic importance of Cérède's new role.

Frédéric Grangié underscored the significance of Cérède's impending arrival, stating that her creative methodology—a delicate interplay of tradition, emotion, daring innovation, and elegant restraint—is expected to infuse Chanel's distinctive codes with fresh interpretations. He further emphasized that her imaginative prowess and deep expertise in craftsmanship and gemology will steer Chanel's jewelry into exciting, uncharted territories.

Marie-Laure Cérède herself conveyed her profound honor and emotion at the prospect of joining Chanel. She described the maison as an entity possessing a singular cultural power and an exceptional commitment to discipline, one that consistently challenges conventional norms, redefines femininity, and articulates modernity through its artistic forms and inherent spirit.

The appointment of Marie-Laure Cérède signifies a pivotal moment for Chanel's jewelry division, promising a blend of fresh creativity and seasoned expertise. Her leadership is anticipated to honor the brand's rich heritage while pushing the boundaries of contemporary jewelry design, further solidifying Chanel's position as a leader in the luxury market.

A growing trend among major retail brands, including teen fashion favorite Brandy Melville, UK supermarkets Sainsbury’s and Tesco, and US thrift giant Goodwill, involves the closure of in-store fitting rooms. This move, driven by a desire to cut operational costs, combat theft, and optimize selling space, has sparked significant debate and backlash from consumers and industry experts alike. While some retailers view it as a necessary adjustment in a challenging economic climate for brick-and-mortar stores, others warn of detrimental effects on customer satisfaction, a surge in product returns, and increased environmental waste.

The Evolving Retail Landscape: The Rise of Fitting Room Closures

In recent weeks, customers across the United States, the United Kingdom, and Canada have noticed the disappearance of fitting rooms in Brandy Melville stores, a brand known for its “one-size-fits-all” policy that often translates to smaller sizes. This has led to widespread frustration, exacerbated by the brand's strict exchange-only return policy. Staff members have reportedly confirmed these closures, attributing them to various factors, including vandalism and renovation efforts. Similarly, Sainsbury’s announced fitting room closures in February 2025 to “simplify and reduce tasks in stores,” while Goodwill regions, such as the Valleys in central, southwest, and south Virginia, have cited staffing and maintenance costs, alongside rising theft, as primary reasons.

This trend emerges during a difficult period for physical retail. In 2025, the UK saw 57 major business failures, impacting thousands of stores and employees, according to the Center of Retail Research. The US experienced over 8,200 store closures in the same year, a 12% increase from 2024, as reported by Coresight Research. In this climate, retailers are actively seeking ways to reduce expenses, and utilizing floor space more efficiently is a key consideration. However, industry experts caution that while closing fitting rooms may offer short-term financial gains by reducing operational costs, it could negatively affect long-term profitability and sustainability.

The impact on customer experience is a major concern. Many shoppers express unwillingness to purchase clothing they cannot try on, with some suggesting boycotting brands that implement such policies. The absence of fitting rooms can also lead to increased online returns, which are significantly higher than in-store returns (30% online vs. 10% in-store, according to the British Fashion Council’s Institute of Positive Fashion). This surge in returns contributes to “reverse logistics” costs, including transportation, warehousing, repackaging, and potential disposal, all of which have substantial environmental implications. For instance, the IPF estimated that returns handling in the UK generated 750,000 tons of CO2 in 2022. Moreover, a significant portion of returned items, particularly those bought online, often end up in landfills. Some retailers, like Son of a Tailor, a premium Danish menswear brand, are taking an opposing approach, investing in spacious, private fitting rooms and personalized service to enhance the in-store experience and reduce returns.

As retailers grapple with the complexities of the modern retail landscape, the decision to eliminate fitting rooms highlights a critical balancing act between cost-cutting measures and maintaining a positive customer experience, with potential far-reaching consequences for both business sustainability and environmental impact.